An education about the food industry from someone with an education in the food industry.
Showing posts with label food science. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food science. Show all posts
Sunday, August 19, 2012
Friday, January 6, 2012
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
An Example Of How Food Hysterics Reason.
Mark Bittman wrote an NYT piece about McDonald's new fruit and maple oatmeal that was easily one of the dumbest attempted take-downs of a food item I have ever seen.
It was very Fox News-ish in how it conveyed facts without context. By the time people figured out the whole truth? Damage done.
And damage was undoubtedly the intent here. Sometimes it's foodists crapping all over whatever seems to be popular at the moment, but lately attacks are usually nothing more than thinly veiled anti-corporate vitriol.
The way Food Hysterics bring about a story can be understood in two recent examples; one example being Mr. Bittman's critique of McDonald's fruit & maple oatmeal... or rather, fruit & maple oatmeal's creator - McDonald's, and the other being Michael Jacobson's HuffPo piece on caramel coloring.
Food Hysterics start with their worldview and work backwards, shaping the story to meet their predetermined outcome. Bittman's beef isn't really with the oatmeal, it's with McDonald's. He says, 'The leading fast-food multinational, with sales over $16.5 billion a year (just under the GDP of Afghanistan), represents a great deal of what is wrong with American food today.' So right off the bat, you should know that everything you are about to read is a negative against McDonald's.
Food Hysterics then steal one of Fox News' more devious tricks by leaving out all context in the numbers they report. Those numbers are reported in a way to reinforce the negative image they just established. The reader leaves the article disappointed and outraged... but they really aren't too sure why. Bittman starts naming the number of ingredients and calls them chemicals without explaining what they're used for. Yes, I do realize he's being honest, but not totally. See, everything is a chemical. You're a sack of chemicals, your filtered water is chemicals(H2O), but he knows that people squirm when they hear that so it just fortifies his point. He recalls facts that are out of context, saying that this oatmeal has only 10 fewer calories than a McDonald's cheeseburger.
Correct, but let's do a quick experiment. Without looking up the nutritional facts... tell me how many calories you think are in a McDonald's cheeseburger. You have your guess ready? It's 300 calories. That means that McDonald's Fruit & Maple Oatmeal contains a gut busting 290 calories. Oh my!! That's a whopping 14.5% of your daily recommended amount of calories(based on a 2,000 calorie diet)! Not very much, considering breakfast should be the biggest meal of the day. But never mind the context... too late for that, he already has you running for the hills in fear of those massive cheeseburger calories. If you order the oatmeal sans the brown sugar, you can get down to an ethereal 260 calories and only 18 grams of sugar(32 grams with).
Mark then makes a point that oatmeal should just be the oatmeal + water and we should have the options of whether we wanted our wholesome goodness ruined with things like fruit and 30 calories worth of brown sugar. He even goes so far as emailing McDonald's to pose them this question directly. Two incredible things followed: first was that he actually reported what they wrote back and second... he glosses right over it.
Incredible thing number one: “Customers can order FMO with or without the light cream, brown sugar and the fruit. Our menu is entirely customizable by request with our ‘Made for You’ platform that has been in place since the late 90s.”
Incredible thing number two... his response: 'Oh please.'
Oh please? This must be the Food Hysteric's equivalent to, 'Yeah, but still'
'Did you hear that the moon landing was faked?'No. We really did land on the moon.'No, it was faked. They have multiple light sources and shadows where they shouldn't be.'Actually, they recreated the lighting conditions and surface areas on the moon to scale and proved it was right.'Yeah...but still'
It basically means you have no argument.
Yes the oatmeal is 10 less calories than McDonald's cheeseburger or the Egg McMuffin, but those sandwich's are only 300 calories, which means the oatmeal is only 290 calories. Not only that but the Egg McMuffin is only 7.1oz while the fully loaded oatmeal is 9.2oz. So for less calories you get a more filling meal. If your lunch and dinner had twice those calories, you would have only consumed 1,450 calories for the entire day and would most likely be running a caloric deficit.
I know this is a long post but bear with me... on to Michael Jacobson and the Center for Science in the Public Interest( CSPI ).
Jacobson's story warns of the dangers hidden in cola(which they already have a huge problem with). He starts by talking about food marketers as if there is some building in Minnesota where they all live labeled, 'Food Marketers' and they're in constant cahoots with one another. He mentions how caramel coloring is made and is all too happy with telling us there is a reaction with ammonia involved, but doesn't go so far as explaining the science. Funny, I thought science was in his organization's name?
You start to see the familiar pattern emerge of facts without context after giving away his true bias. He goes on to mention how lab rats and mice were given the coloring and formed tumors. What he doesn't mention and, more importantly, what he doesn't address in any of the comments was the toxicity. One study put the minimum amount of 4-Methylimidazole that causes cancer in lab rats to be 40 milligrams per kilogram of body weight. The most 4-Methylimidazole they found per 20oz cola was 213 micrograms or .213milligrams. Let's say someone weighs 100 Kg, they would need to ingest 4,000 mg/kg of bodyweight to get cancer. That works out to over 18,000 20oz bottle of cola in the same 2 year period as the rats. Can you drink 9,000 bottle of cola a year? If I really try, I can get down 48 12oz servings in a week. So even though I am a heavy pop drinker, I would fall far short.
Labels:
caramel coloring,
cola,
CSPI,
food science,
Mark Bittman,
McDonalds,
Michael Jacobson,
Oatmeal
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Mountain Dew Bottlers Trying Out New Caps?
Here, you see a normal screw top cap for a plastic, 20 oz Mtn Dew bottle. Notice the soft plastic lining as well as the many short plastic threads on the inside. This bottle was dated for July 10th, 2010.
Compare that cap with this one. This cap has less threading on the inside and those individual ridges are longer. Pay particular attention to the lack of a lining. The lining acts as a gasket, making sure the product is sealed and maintains pressure. This cap features a ridge that you can see running just inside of the cap. The ridge is angled to be thicker at the bottom(top of the cap). This is fairly ingenious because as the cap is screwed on, the mouth of the bottle squeezes between the ridge and the cap, creating a tight seal. No need for a liner. I can tell that this cap definitely feels different when unscrewing. This bottle had the same sell by date as the other one. So the question is this; is this the new bottle cap design and are we going to see this in the rest of the PepsiCo line-up?
Here are both caps, side by side for comparison.
Labels:
bottle cap design,
food science,
Mountain Dew,
Mtn Dew,
packaging design,
PepsiCo,
pop,
soda
Friday, February 12, 2010
The Naked Brain: activism minus science.

The winner of the 2010 TED gift is Celebrity Chef Jamie Oliver. TED stands for Technology Entertainment Design and is a nonprofit foundation that features lectures and presentations by many of our species greatest minds. TED presentations focus on science, technology, and humanity. I love their site and have spent entire days watching people demonstrate cutting edge technology. I watched Bill Clinton give a very inspiring speech as he accepted his TED gift. The TED gift is a financial award that the winner can apply to their research or cause.
"I wish for your help to create a strong, sustainable movement to educate every child about food, inspire families to cook again and empower people everywhere to fight obesity"
OK. This sounds great, right? Everyone wants families to cook more and everyone wants little kids to not be so fat, and everyone wants to be sustainable. Whew! I feel all warm and bubbly inside already.
But what does that actually mean?
Sustainable is the most loaded, overused term in the modern era(2nd only to 'fresh'). It should mean that what you do(grow, produce, manufacture) is used in such a way that the component parts that make up what you do are replenished at a rate that keeps pace with what you are doing.
Sustainable logging means that you plant trees to replace what you cut and more trees are ready to harvest before you run out of trees.
Sustainable manufacturing is a little more tricky: I think it's using sources of renewable energy to produce items that are made with recyclable materials.
Sustainable food should mean that, like trees, you are planting what you take. But then people say, 'Well, fertilizers can pollute, so it can't be sustainable if you use those.' Then other people say, 'Hey, this food is trucked 500 miles, so it isn't sustainable.'
It's such a loaded term and what I think people really think it should mean is this: Sustainable means I don't feel guilty anymore.
Jamie Oliver also says he wants to create a movement to educate children about food. His wish is for a movement. His goal is more activism. His wish isn't that children get educated about food, his wish is for a movement. That is fairly important.
Jamie Oliver is a brand. You can assign a value to him as an entity, based on ratings for cooking shows, endorsement deals, cookbook sales, etc. What a brand such as him really needs is a cause... a movement.
My original intent was to separate fact from fiction concerning his movement, but as I investigated, I noticed that there aren't really facts involved, so I will consider the actual idea and theme of his movement.
The title of this blog is a clickable link that goes to Oliver's site where you can see this all for yourself.
So here is what I get from his movement:
Nutritious School lunches using local, sustainable, real food.
Families that prepare meals at home.
Educating kids about food.
Fighting the scourge that is obesity [grrr!]
First off, I'm a little confused by the school lunch program to be honest. Is the goal to provide food since the kids are stuck there for 6-8 hours? Or is the goal to provide complete nutrition, as if the only food they get is at school? This makes a huge difference, by the way. If the idea is that this has to be enough food in case they aren't fed at all at home, then you need much more calorie dense and nutrient dense foods. If you're just providing food to as one meal out of several then you don't need as many calories and it can be just enough to satiate hunger without making the kid tired after lunch.
Jamie Oliver takes several shots at processed foods. The following is from his School Food Charter:
"Don’t just look for the USDA symbol. How many ingredients do you recognize? How many are adding nutritional value to the food? Remember, real food, cooked fresh, doesn’t need additives, preservatives, or anything artificial. Processed food is often full of these things."
Oh boy... First off, he equates the goodness of food with the number of ingredients. Then he makes a statement about real food being fresh(another loaded term) which means that processed foods aren't real. His line of logic then concludes with a statement demonizing preservatives. He's also playing on people's lack of education about food science. It would be impossible to make this arguments stick if people knew what the preservatives were for and that they really are harmless.
These are old, tired arguments from the food hysterics. Processed food is bad and it isn't real, and there are things in it we don't immediately understand, so that makes it bad. Preservatives are neither good nor bad. They're preservatives.
Processed food is real and uses the same methods you would use in the kitchen, just mechanized for mass production. Example: instant mashed potatoes.
What do you do when you make mashed potatoes? Peel and cut potatoes, boil potatoes to cook them, mash the potatoes, and mix in seasonings and cream.
What does a factory do to make mashed potatoes? Peel and cut potatoes, boil potatoes to cook them, mash the potatoes, and mix in seasonings and cream. They just go the additional step of drying the mashed potatoes and packaging the powder.
Do you test your mashed potatoes for micro organisms? Do you have others thoroughly inspect your kitchen for cleanliness and safety every day? No? The factory does.
I'm concerned that Jamie Oliver is simply taking old arguments that weren't based in science and is repackaging them to help sell his brand. After all, a family learning to cook, is going to need cookwear, and a cookbook or an instructional dvd. Mr. Oliver takes digs at processed foods, but look what he has on his site here: http://www.jamieoliver.com/cupboard
Hmm.. That stuff looks familiar. Can't quite put my finger on it, but I feel like I've seen that before. I don't see how he has the time to cook all of this food at home and package it for sale. Surely, he doesn't use contract food manufacturers(private labels) to make a product line and put his name on it.
Hypocritical and completely tone-deaf.
He also advocates eating on plates and using metal utensils. Who's going to pay for this?
His plan would essentially turn school cafeterias into 3 star restaurants for children that eat there for a half hour and usually at around 10AM. You want proper table settings? Fine. You will also need to hire additional personelle and you'll need to buy a Hobart C-line dishwasher to accommodate the volume of dishes. You'll need more staff to work longer hours chopping, sauteing, simmering, and roasting food. These are real culinary skills, so you'll need to bump up the pay to attract the talent that can actually pull this off. You want local, raw ingredients? Then you need to contact local purveyors and get more deliveries, more often, and you will pay a premium for it.
Not only does Mr. Oliver not consult food science and nutrition experts on his plans, but check out the people on his must see list.
He lists Marion Nestle, Michael Pollan, the movies Food Inc. and Two Angry Moms, and The Centre For Science In The Public Interest (not really science).
What I gather from all of this is that Jamie Oliver is at the very least, misguided about food issues and falls into the same trap many other well intentioned, misinformed folks fall into. More than that, Jamie Oliver is more concerned about his brand than children, evidenced by his TED gift acceptance speech where he states that his wish was for a movement...not for specific changes. This gift coincides perfectly with his new ABC series Food Revolution and compliments his books, dvd's, cookware, and yes, even his line of processed foods.
Can we please return to science and reason as a means to shape policy?
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)

